Cigarette Pant Cutting – Tailoring With Usha


hello friends, today m going to teach you the cutting of cigarette pant the measurement is like this length without belt 34 inch waist 24.5 inch crotch length 12 inch hips 30 inch knee length 21.5 inch knee circumference 14 inch foothole 6 inch belt length 2 inch this is our cigarette pant cloth from the stretchable portion of cloth take all the widths and lengths from non-stretchable portion after double folding cloth, from top take crotch length leaving 2 inch for the belt i.e 12 inch now mark knee length lengthwise, i.e 21.5 inch(leaving 2 inch at top for belt) now mark at total length i.e 34 inch and mark 2.5 inch extra for fold and sewing seam at this point we covered all the lengths of cigarette pants at top take 1/4 of waist + 1 inch(sewing seam) [if cloth is not stretchable then take 1.5 inch] i.e 24.5/4 + 1=7 inch now mark 7 inch at the crotch length width wise also from the same width take 1/4 of hips + 1 inch i.e 30/4=7.5+1=8.5 inch, mark it join the 7 inch mark to top 7 inch mark in straight line and join 7 and 8.5 inch mark and measure it, it comes 1.5 inch so take 2 inch lengthwise and do the curving from 8.5 inch mark this is crotch curve mark straight at knee length and then at top open corner mark 1-1.5 inch width wise for our pocket and then make a slant to crotch length line width wise from 1.5 inch mark and waist width mark take centre of it, i.e 5.5/2=2.75 inch, mark it and now measure that centre mark from open side cloth width wise, it come 4.5 inch mark it all across widths this is somehow the centre line of cigarette pant consider this line as centre and mark equal half widths at knee and foothole line at knee length, circumference of knee is 14 + 1(sewing seam)=15 inch, then take 1/4 of 15 inch i.e 3.75, mark it both sides from that centre line now join crotch curve to knee mark and and now at foothole part, foothole is 6+1 (sewing seam)=7 inch and half of 7 is 3.5 mark it on both sides from centre line join the foothole and cloth for folding in a straight manner join the other knee part to foothole and crotch length line mark on centre line at top we insert a dart for proper fitting of pant the range of dart in length is 3.5 to 4 inch and in width 07.5 to 1 inch this is our cloth for pocket, we do not cut it just fold it to wrong side and insert pocket i’ll teach that portion in stitching now cutting is done like this, outer line of the drafting (excluding the pocket portion) after this cutting i’ll teach you how to do drafting and cutting of back part of pant after cutting front part, place it on the remaining cloth for back part drafting mark on it taking extra 0.75 to 1 inch width wise from top to bottom covering crotch length, knee part and foothole take 1.5 inch extra at top width wise for back part and make a slant line to the other end and take 1.5 inch extra for the fitness of hips take this extra part up to crotch length and gradually decrease this margin to 0.75 from knee to foothole portion join the bottom ends, this is our back drafting and cut it from the marked lines and this will be back part cutting this is the other cotton cloth for pockets and attach patches of cigarette pant cloth and fold it inside take pocket length+ 1 inch on 4 layered cloth, i.e 9+1=10 inch lengthwise and width is 5.5, m taking 6.2 inch (1.2 inch extra for sewing seam) make a box and cut it, in stitching i’l teach you how to sew pockets and i already got a request on how to insert buttons at the end of capri and cigarette pants, that i also teach you the belt is cut after the stitching of the cigarette pant, i’l teach you that in stitching video the zip is made from this cloth which was cut from the crotch curve mark in next video i’ll teach you a new cutting/stitching in a simple way..thank you πŸ™‚